A Short Walk in the Western Fells

Only the seasoned Wainwright bagger and local residents of West Cumbria will ever have heard of the hill called Grike but for everyone else it's the westernmost of the Wainwrights or Lake District

The early part of the walk looking to Blake Fell

Fells, and stands next to Crag Fell whose far side rises splendidly above Ennerdale Water. In the mist and rain this area is bleak and lonely indeed but when the sun shines it reveals a side of the Lake District most tourists never see. Lonely it certainly is but that is part of its appeal.

Leaving the minor road that links Gosforth and Ennerdale Bridge I followed the track that leads into the hills from just south of Kinniside Stone Circle. The ancient monument itself is well worth a visit before setting out and if you're not walking is a worthwhile destination in itself. The track led over open fields before reaching patchy coniferous forest beyond a gate and climbing at an

easy gradient to meet another track coming up from woodland below. Crossing this trail, the open fellside was gained close to a low col and I took the left hand of two tracks in a roughly easterly direction over open grassland. After a short distance - perhaps a kilometre or so - I left the trail and crossed a stile to climb the sheep cropped turf to the left up to the large cairn on the summit of Grike.

At 488m this is no great height but its position as the westernmost of the Wainwrights affords a wide view over the West Cumbrian Plain and the Irish Sea as well as ahead where the grassland rises steadily towards the more rugged terrain of Pillar, Scoat Fell and Haycock on the horizon. Leaving the cairn I headed on down into the dip between here and Crag Fell which is slightly higher at 523m. The low ground is boggy and it's maybe better to

Pillar Scoat Fell and Haycock from the summit of Grike

return to the track which lies just beyond the communications mast right of the dip but I didn't and got slightly wet.

The top of Crag Fell is impressive for a lesser fell and commands an eye catching panorama of the head of Ennerdale above a steep drop to Ennerdale Water. It is well worth journeying the short distance beyond the cairn to the next minor summit where the view is even better and brought to mind the walk along the top of the Screes from Whin Rigg to Illgill Head above nearby Wastwater.

These lower hills often provide an experience in excess of their stature and these two remote and

The wild head of Ennerdale from Crag Fell

seldom visited summits are no exception though today the weather contributed to the experience with blue skies and far off views forming a backdrop to the empty miles of Lakeland's western rim. What had started as a mere peak bagging exercise to achieve two more ticks towards finishing the Wainwrights became a fine walk in itself.To return I merely headed south from Crag Fell to join the original track further up and follow it back to where I had started for a total outing of just under 9km or 6 miles.

The Lake District Four Valleys Walk

The approximate route taken without diversions

The topography of the western Lake District is so aligned that four of the seven main valleys converge on the relatively small area between Great Gable and Honister Pass. The advantage of this to the hiker is that these four valleys can be linked by a circular walk through some of the finest scenery in the National Park that is no more than a longish day's outing in the fells.

This route which I've called here the Four Valleys Walk leaves Wasdale Head to cross Black Sail into Ennerdale before skirting the very upper reaches of the Buttermere valley and returning over Brandreth and Green Gable to Styhead Tarn in Borrowdale. From here the return is over Styhead Pass to Wasdale and the start point. My deviation to the fell called Base Brown - the only Wainwright in the region I had not climbed - added 2 miles and considerable ascent but a better diversion would be Great Gable if you haven't been up there before. Without deviations it's a walk of 15k or about nine and a half miles and an ascent of 3700ft. Great Gable adds 500 feet of ascent and perhaps half a mile (you can return from the summit directly to Styhead) while my version was eleven and a half miles and 4200 feet of ascent which fully justified the pint in the Head afterwards.

If some of the photos look as though they were taken on different days it's because they were - my camera died and I was forced to dig out old pictures along the route and no - I did not spend the whole day in the Wasdale Head Hotel!

Pillar and Mosedale in early morning light

There was something satisfying about being up at 6AM in a Wasdale Head that I seemed to have completely to myself. A short breakfast and I headed up past the pub and along the bank of the stream - the route here goes left in front of the shop, past the bar entrance at the side and right along the river bank - until I left the valley track and turned left into Mosedale with Pillar at its head and the seemingly unbroken wall of Yewbarrow and Red Pike on the left. For a while at least I was alone as the early light painted the fells in rich reds and golds that revealed every fold of the hills.

The path soon steepened as the climb to Black Sail was reached and hard work replaced serenity. After crossing the stream I climbed steeply to gain the upper valley before the gradient relented. The line of sunlight moved steadily lower until it reached me as I gained Black Sail Pass. Here I left the Wasdale Valley and entered the wilds of Ennerdale; the upper reaches of which are only accessible to the walker and the mountain biker as no road extends up here.

Walking up Mosedale from Wasdale Head at dawn

After pausing to admire the sublime scenery of the pass - if you head a short way north west along the ridge to Looking Stead the views are even better - I followed the path down in warm sunlight to the wooden footbridge that crosses the River Liza in the valley floor. The valley here is still a thousand feet above sea level so its a short descent and a nice one in almost any weather. This area is one of my favorite in the Lakes and always reminds me more of the remote Scottish highlands than the relatively busy Lake District but the hordes don't come here - they would have to walk too far from their cars! After the bridge which is a short distance up the path from the Youth Hostel I headed right towards Great Gable at the head of Ennerdale. For this walk it's essential to follow one of the paths up to the left before a prominent ridge is reached that rises ahead to Green Gable. The path to the right of this is the route to Great Gable but that's another walk.

Black Sail Pass is the route into Ennerdale from Wasdale

Presently I joined a good path that climbed steeply in a shady gully to gain the edge of the plateau above. The route isn't obvious from nearer the Youth Hostel but it becomes clear as the aforementioned ridge is approached. From up here on the high ground connecting Haystacks with Brandreth and Grey Knotts a new vista opened up of the Buttermere valley with Grasmoor beyond and following the path roughly eastwards past a fence took me into the heathery upper reaches of that valley towards Fleetwith Pike and Honister. That is where this path heads to but only as far as where it met the Honister to Great Gable path.

My first actual summit of the morning  - and it was still early - was Brandreth which I reached after 3000 feet of ascent and sat down to enjoy the views down to Buttermere and Crummock Water on one side and my final valley of Borrowdale on the other. From here it was just a case of following the wide easy ridge towards Green Gable though I deviated to Base Brown which was the one

The beautiful upper part of Ennerdale is 6 miles from the road

"Wainwright" of the area I had not climbed. It was a a nice place for lunch but further than it looked and meant I had ascended precisely 4000 feet by the time I'd reached Green Gable. The path up on the left side of the ridge led on to Great Gable but I had no need to go up again - it's a steep and stony climb but not hard and well worth doing if you haven't been up before though there are easier ways up Great Gable than trekking through four Lakeland valleys!

My way led finally down to the left which again was very rough and stony at first but soon met a path constructed of stone steps that made the going easier down to Styhead Tarn about a thousand feet lower in the Upper part of the fourth valley - Borrowdale. In places the river must run a little way underground as it can be heard out of sight below the stones - frustrating if you had run out of water on a warm day. The path

The path crosses the River Liza just above the Youth Hostel

here to the left goes to Seathwaite while my route led a little way up to Styhead Pass and on down back to Wasdale Head which comes into sight just after the pass indicating that it is all downhill from here. Once in the valley, the path passes the Church of St Olaf which is reputedly England's smallest before emerging at the Green just past the small campsite. From here the pub is not far...

High Stile and Grasmoor frame the Buttermere Valley

Pete Buckley April 2015

Pillar and Ennerdale from the summit of Green Gable

Styhead Tarn in the upper reaches of Borrowdale with Great End beyond

Back into Wasdale Head from Styhead Pass after coming full circle

Hiking in the Lake District - Across England's Highest Peak

Slightly out of breath from the steep climb we stopped by the stream that cascaded down from Great Gable and decided to fill our water bottles with the cold refreshing water.   Since we had crossed the wooden footbridge down below, the level valley path from Wasdale Head past the tiny church of st Olaf and the sheepfolds of Burnthwaite had become a relentless stony climb. It's one I've done many times though but this was different because I was taking my eldest son Josh up England's highest peak Scafell Pike after a camp in the valley and it brought to mind the many times I had followed my own father up these same trails.

Our objective appeared from the mists across the valley in the early morning light as we watched; sporting a few remnants of winter snow above the wild and craggy confines of Sty Head. It was good to have the place to ourselves and we set off again towards the top of the pass which was not far now.

Our first view of Scafell Pike from the path to Styhead Pass

Sty Head is as much a crossroads in the hills as a pass with the path we were on linking Wasdale and Borrowdale, while a good path heads right (roughly south east) towards Langdale. Up to the left is the path to Great Gable from where steep and rough trails lead down towards Ennerdale,

Styhead Tarn occupies an idyllic place in the hills just below the pass of the same name. The fell beyond is Green Gable

Sprinkling Tarn at 2000 ft on the route has the dubious honour of being the rainiest place in England

We followed the right hand path past the idyllic Sty Head Tarn and up below the dark crags of Great End to Sprinkling Tarn at almost 2000 feet. This lonely stretch of water has the dubious honour of being the wettest place in England and though it wasn't raining at the moment the early sun appeared to be having second thoughts. After the tarn where the path forks, the right one is taken for Scafell Pike; the other being the route to Langdale. This section is particularly easy being on constructed trails up moderate gradients heading firstly in a southerly direction to Esk Hause and then curving more to the West around Great End to a high col that offers views back down to Sty Head and a sense that one is getting somewhere.

A false sense of security is given to all unfamiliar with the mountain by this easy section; Scafell Pike is still around a mile away across some of the roughest ground in the Lake District. Up to the left (roughly south west) from the col soon leads to the boulder fields; the marker cairns offer a way that avoids the worst of the boulder hopping but even though I have been here many times Istill had to look carefully for the route. The dip down to Little Narrowcove and the final steep ascent to the Pike was almost welcome after the rocks and soon we stood on the highest ground in England, 3210 feet or 978m above sea level.

Josh had almost made it - this is on the rough section with the summit beyond

At 3210ft or 978m Scafell Pike is the highest mountain in England. The peak visible on the right is Great Gable(2949ft/899m) with Pillar and Kirk Fell on the left

For the route down we followed the well marked path north-westwards towards Lingmell Col which is good for the Corridor Route back to Styhead or the so called "Brown Tongue" route which is the shortest way to Wasdale Head from the summit and a long stony descent followed, passing the turn off on the right for the Corridor. The path then curved around and down to the left onto easier grassy terrain as we had opted for Brown Tongue which algthough a little tedious in ascent offers a quick way down and meant we would have traversed the peak and come down the other side. Once on the constructed pathway which consists of many hundreds of stone steps the way is obvious - the only choices being at the bottom of the steep slope after crossing the river where the main path carries on (to the National Trust campsite) and a path heads off across the slope to the right. This goes to the Green and Wasdale Head Hotel and was our way back to the car.

From just below the summit we looked back down to Styhead Tarn that we passed earlier. Great End is on the right

Looking back up to Mickledore the ridge that separates Scafell and Scafell Pike from the region known as Hollow Stones on the route down

A welcome sight at the end of the walk though the photo was actually taken from the Green as we set off

The route as we walked it is a circular one of 12.5km or about eight miles and just over 3000ft (914m) of ascent and descent that effectively makes a traverse or crossing of Scafell Pike. The terrain is excessively rough and stony for most of the way and will seem further than 8 miles but it's worth the effort on a day with a view and is within the capabilities of most reasonably fit people. Wasdale Head has a couple of campites and B&b's as well as the hotel which is a welcome sight after the walk. Allow a good 5-6 hrs with stops.

Pete Buckley April 2014

Walking in the Lake District - Grasmere, Easedale and Tarn Crag

The secluded valley of Easedale just a stone's throw from bustling Grasmere is a popular destination for tourists who walk up into the hills from the village to Easedale Tarn; yet until very recently it was the only valley of any size in the Lake District that I'd never visited.

So taking advantage of a weather window - well it had stopped raining - I set out from Grasmere's Butharlyp How Youth Hostel to go take a look at Easedale Tarn and ascend Tarn Crag which is an interesting looking sub-2000 Wainwright that rises directly above it.

Leaving Gramere the path heads through the lower part of Easedale with Tarn crag seen ahead

The path from Grasmere lies firstly along a lane conveniently named Easedale Road that heads past the Youth hostel and on towards the base of Helm Crag (aka the Lion and the Lamb). The path is signed off to the left through a gate and over the beck after perhaps half a mile where the route to Helm Crag carries straight on. Just a short way through some woods and the view ahead is of the Central Fells at the head of Easedale.

At a stone bridge on the right there is the choice of crossing the beck though I kept straight on - both trails lead to Easedale Tarn and fording the river is easy at the outflow of the tarn.

The path makes a steady ascent from the flat valley floor, following the beck which is called Sour Milk Gill,  past an impressive waterfall and on up to Easedale Tarn. The tarn lies in a rugged hollow in the fells that contrasts finely with the pastoral nature of the lower part of the valley.

The wild looking surroundings of Easedale Tarn contrasts with the valley below

 This is a worthwhile destination for a short and easy day out but I crossed the outflow  at some stepping stones and journeyed a little way around its right hand side picking up a faint path heading up the steep slopes above the water. The path became clearer higher up and as the gradient eased; emerged on the wide grassy ridge above. I now headed up to the left with the peak of Tarn Crag rising ahead.

A faint path leads up the wide grassy ridge towards Tarn Crag whose summit is the obvious peak straight ahead. The route is easier and shorter than it looks in the picture!

Tarn Crag; despite its modest altitude is of an imposing appearance but the easy path heads up between its two peaks - the highest being the pointed one on the right - and doubles back to gain the cairn which is perched on a fine eyrie overlooking Easedale and the Grasmere valley. Here the wind blew harder and the mist had now come in so I ventured back below the crest to eat my lunch on a comfortable rock just below the ridge separating the two summits.

Looking towards Fairfield and Helvellyn from my lunch place just below the top of Tarn Crag.

In clearer weather the views would impress from here but today everything above about 1800 ft was obscured though Easedale Tarn and the Grasmere valley made a pleasant backdrop to my downhill walk before the rain once more made its return. At least it had the decency to wait until I was back at Grasmere.

The lonely situation of Easedale Tarn is clear from the walk back down Tarn Crag

I liked this spot so finished my lunch here - it was a short way around the tarn looking towards the outflow where the paths emerge

The walk in total is 6 miles return (four if you only go as far as the tarn) and reaches a maximum height of 1801 feet. The tarn lies at just under 1000 feet. Grasmere has a profusion of hotels, guest houses and B&B's though I stayed at the youth hostel which is a five minute walk from the village.

Pete Buckley March 2014

Walking in the Lake District - Buttermere and Haystacks

Despite a modest altitude of 597m or 1962 feet; Haystacks; which rises above Buttermere, is probably one of the most popular ascents in all the Lake District. The fell's popularity is well deserved and stems from its rugged nature and easy access from Buttermere as well as the fact that it was among the favorites of Wainwright; whose guidebooks to the Lakes are still - and probably always will be - without compare. The summit with its little tarns and rugged outcrops was in fact the author's final resting place.

Haystacks on the left seen from the Buttermere lakeside path

I wondered then on a recent trip to Buttermere, why I had never climbed Haystacks and so set out to remedy the situation. A lakeside path circuits Buttermere so from the village either shore can be taken with the northern side being my choice today. A short section of road led to Gatesgarth Farm (where you can park for a reasonable £3 at the time of writing) but this would miss out the beautiful shoreline views and Haystacks is not a long walk anyway.

From Gatesgarth a wide track crosses fields and circuits the southern side of the lake but my track branched steeply uphill and off to the left climbing steadily towards Scarth Gap; the pass to neighboring Ennerdale.

Looking across the steep slopes of Haystacks from the Scarth Gap path

Climbing high above the head of the Buttermere Valley with the thin grey ribbon of the Honister Road below, the bulk of Fleetwith Pike opposite and the castle-like crags of Haystacks up ahead, I followed the wide path up to Scarth Gap. a short way down the other side is the Black Sail Youth Hostel in a wonderfully wild spot near the head of Ennerdale and over six miles from the road but my way led up to the left - and seemed to coincide with everyone else's.

And looking back downtowards Buttermere from a little further on. Grasmoor in the background

The path from here to Haystacks - despite being busy - is an interesting and occasionally exciting route. The route is never in doubt and winds its way between crags and up little gullies with the occasional easy scramble, to quickly gain the summit plateau. You are up close and personal with some very rough and steep terrain but if the path is stuck to there are no difficulties.

The summit of Haystacks consists of a short rocky ridge raised slightly above the plateau. The picture was taken from the cairn though both ends are of roughly equal height.

From my lunch stop on the top, Green Gable, Great Gable and Kirk Fell across the top of Ennerdale

Considering the relative height of this peak in relation to its neighbors, the summit views are impressive to say the least. Great Gable and Pillar along with the wild upper reaches of Ennerdale impress the most while High Crag at the end of the High Stile Ridge appears of vast proportions across Scarth Gap. Despite the picnicking families I secured a comfortable rock just below the cairn which was a great spot for lunch.

Ascent 500m/1640ft  >>> Descent 500m/1640ft >>> How far? 10.4km/6.5 miles

Distance is from Buttermere Youth Hostel

Pete Buckley October 2013

The Eastern Edge of Lakeland - a Circuit of Longsleddale

Along the eastern boundaries of Lakeland between the high fells and the Shap road there lies a remote hill country that sees few visitors compared to the better known areas to the West. Only peak baggers and walkers who like solitude would recognise the names of Tarn Crag, Harrop Pike and Grey Crag but while the region may lack the spectacular scenery of Wasdale Head and the Buttermere valley, it does have a charm of its own.

The only road to venture up here is the 5 mile single track lane to Sadgill at the head of Longsleddale; itself reached from the A6 just north of Kendal and it is from Sadgill that this walk starts and finishes. For the Wainwright bagger the tally is 5 - the first 2 of which I had not previously done myself - and the walk is effectively a horseshoe around the head of Longsleddale lasting ten and a half miles that sets off through the lonely country to the East of the valley and finishes on the more familiar ridge of Harter Fell and Kentmere Pike to the West.

The parking area is at the road end just before the bridge - I don't know of a bus up here - and the route begins through the gate on its eastern side. Please take care not to block the gates or track as space is limited especially at weekends. There is no clear path on the other side of the wall but make for the gap in the wall that is visible above and to the left.

Beyond the second wall a faint path climbed the steep fellside ahead skirting around to the right of the rocky outcrop above and ascending a shallow gully. At the top of this the gradient eased and there was soon a third wall across my path but with no gap. Here I followed the path to the right alongside the stone wall until an opportunity arose for climbing it - which I duly did. I needn't have done so because a little further on a stile crosses it in any case.

From the stile a path leads up the hill on the far side of the wall - where it is unclear keep left towards the highest ground which is known as Great How. From here an obvious track makes its way across the undulating terrain ahead. The first summit - Grey Crag - is ahead and slightly to the right and the path does make its way in this direction in front of the peak before turning back left to the summit. This avoids some steep rough ground that a beeline would cross.

The summit of Grey Crag - the easternmost of the Wainwrights - is an isolated spot as one could find in the Lake District and I was not surprised to have it to myself. Even the sheep were elsewhere. Mist hid the fells to the West and the most eye catching view was that of the Howgills to the South East.

The way to Tarn Crag is a case of following the faint path from here towards where a fence is seen on the far side of the summit. A distant stone pillar was visible to the east across a 2000 foot high plateau of tussock country that seemed to mark the true edge of the high country so I diverted towards it. The cairn is on nearby Harrop Pike about half a mile diversion eastwards from the fence and it provides extensive views over the Shap Fells and the Pennines. If you were trekking cross country to the Shap Road (A6) this is the way you would come.

A note for peak baggers; Harrop Pike is not a Wainwright but is a two thousander just in case the decision to visit it rests with such things, but it's an easy walk that adds less than a mile to the route today and on a warm sunny day it would make a great lunch stop.

Returning to the fence it was just a case of following the path north down into a marshy gap then back up a gradual climb to Tarn Crag where there was no view. A stone tower adorns this fell too - just to the west of the highest point but it's a much more substantial construction than the cairn on Harrop Pike.

There are crags to the West of Tarn Crag's summit so to access the Gatescarth Pass track we must head north again. In the end because of the visibility I followed the clear path all the way to the col with Branstree instead of looking for the short cut down along a stream. There was no path that way in any case. I soon picked up the track from Mosedale and followed it down to the bridleway.

When the Gatescarth route is met we turn right and follow the wide track steeply up to the top of the pass where - just after a gate - another obvious path branches left to ascend Harter Fell. Carrying on will take you down to Mardale and Haweswater.

I followed the wide route up towards Harter Fell. There had been a metre of snow the last time I was up here which is probably why I didn't remember the path being like this. I followed it to the top where - yes there was no view again. That's a shame because the view of Haweswater from Harter Fell is just superb - the best place is an area of rocks to the right of the path just before the first summit is reached. The true summit is almost another half a mile after this. There was no view there either.

Now I was on the way back - and it was nearly all downhill from here. An obvious path leads south then south east to make the small climb to Kentmere Pike before continuing down the gentle slope to Shipman Knotts. The higher ground to the left of the path between these 2 fells is the top of Goat Scar and is well worth a visit - in better visibility - for the views of Longsleddale.

After Shipman Knotts the terrain changes again and the descent becomes steeper and rockier than the route so far. The path descends beside a wall then crosses a marshy plateau before making a steep descent towards the Sadgill-Kentmere bridleway. It isn't quite a scramble but as close as this route gets. When the bridleway is reached we turn left back to Sadgill which is not far - less than a mile downhill.

Pete Buckley Mar 2011

Summits: Grey Crag 638m >>> Harrop Pike 637m >>> Tarn Crag 664m >>> Harter Fell 778m >>> Kentmere Pike 730m >>> Shipman Knotts 587m

Essentials >>> Up 950m >>> down 950m >>> How Far? 17km >>> Start and finish at Sadgill Longsleddale >>> more walks and hikes

Causey Pike and the Sail Pass

The familiar outline of Causey Pike is prominent in the western panorama from Keswick and Derwentwater and the popular climb to its summit is a fine route whether done on its own or as part of the ridge route terminating at Eel Crag (Crag Hill on OS maps). This route is a circular outing that goes as far as Sail (just beyond the Sail Pass) and returns over the lesser but no less interesting peaks of Outerside and Barrow. It could be extended to Crag Hill - which was considered - though more retracing of steps would be involved and the weather did not encourage a longer trip today.

Leaving the car at an ample roadside space on the Newlands Road just over a mile south of Braithwaite I set off south along the road towards the precipitous looking slopes of Rowling End - the eastern spur of Causey Pike - which was my first objective. The path on the right is our return route and is not a short cut to Causey Pike. There is another free parking place just along the road here so please do not abandon vehicles in the passing places - you will not be thanked for it!

As soon as I had crossed the beck by a small bridge, a path led off up the steep slopes to my right. It was a relief to start the climb as it was not a warm day - only 4 degrees C at valley level and breezy with it. The path led easily at first up the valley with the beck down on the right and Causey Pike rising steeply to the clouds ahead. The main path carries on climbing across the slope but after a short while I took a steeper path that ascended through the heather to the left. The main route is okay but this path ascends to the top of the spur of Rowling End and provides superior views up the Newlands Valley once the top is gained.

This way was steep though and hands were needed in a few places as easy rock passages were encountered. It was more that the rock was slippery than difficuly but the views were worth the extra effort and I soon found myself on a wide heathery ridge top with the wild scene of the head of the Newlands valley bounded by High Spy and Dale Head, contrasting with the wooded shores of Derwentwater beyond the fields and farmhouses of the dale below.

Ahead was the steep cone of Causey Pike , mist clinging to the summit crags. It reminded me from here, of a smaller and tamer version of the Matterhorn with the rocky bulge just below the summit. I passed the point where the main path reaches the ridge - Sleet Hause - and started up the ridge.

A good path led without difficulty up the ridge and I gained height quickly soon finding myself below the rocky section. The path heads more or less straight up this rocky dome and while the hands are certainly needed, the way up is much easier than it appears from below then - just as the steepness eases - you are on one of the finest summits in the region. The highest point is the top of the steep rocky bulge seen from below though as the rocks are surmounted one reaches a small grassy platform.

It was a shame that I had reached the cloud layer as the view - which had improved with height would have been excellent from this eagle's nest of a vantage point. The top of Causey Pike is made up of several - 5 I think - bumps which are visible in views of the fell from below. The path now led sucessively over these. The first one appears to be the highest but there's not much between it and the third one. There was no mistake about the route now - on along the ridge through a chill windblown fog towards the next peak - Scar Crags - itself invisible about a kilometre ahead.

The ridge widened for a while and a constructed raised pathway traversed some damp looking areas before a steady ascent brought me to the top of Scar Crags where the view matched that from Causey Pike exactly - a circle of turf and stones beyond which existed only a cold rushing blankness.

The path led on down the far side into the mist and I was soon at Sail Pass where this trail crosses the one linking Braithwaite and Buttermere. The logical circular route here branches right on the Sail Pass towards Braithwaite but with a nod in the direction of peak bagging I decided to ascend Sail before heading down that way. The summit is not much further and was one of the Wainwrights I hadn't climbed before. I had originally planned to go as far as Eel Crag aka Crag Hill but I had been there not so long ago in better weather than this and it would mean retracing my steps if I wanted to visit Outerside. Besides my planned descent of Crag Hill by the Shelf Route - also a fine route of ascent - from Coledale requires clear weather.

Heading up the easy slope to Sail on the wide path, the landscape subtly changed. Sprigs of heather and longer strands of grass beside the path became tinged with white hoar frost and the small patches of snow ceased to be soft. At 2400 feet I had reached the freezing level or 0 degree isotherm. Thanks to the mist I had also entered what aircraft pilots call icing conditions where cloud droplets freeze on contact with solid objects in this case clothing which is far less of a problem than the control surfaces of an aircraft. The forecast snow had not arrived though.

The top of Sail was a cheerless place in this weather and I set off back down to the pass where I emerged below the mist to the wild scene of upper Coledale with the ruined mine below the waterfall at its head. The cloud hid the surrounding summits from view and their rough slopes dropped from the mist. I was passed by 2 girls who had been on Sail and were also heading for Outerside which was the interesting looking cone shaped hill in front that was currently free from mist.

After I had eaten most of my lunch I set off down the track on the Coledale side in a roughly north easterly direction. This is an interesting path across the rough slopes of Scar Crags high above the valley and it led to more level ground where I branched off left towards Outerside. This was grassy terrain and became quite boggy for a while before I found solid ground that led easily up to the fine stony summit of Outerside. These smaller fells are often unjustly neglected yet they can be just as enjoyable to climb as the major fells. The 2 girls had headed up here but no-one else had. They must be doing the Wainwrights as well!

I walked down the ridge towards the expansive views of Keswick, Derwentwater and the lower slopes of Skiddaw and passed the 2 girls again - they must have thought I was following them! The ridge steepened down to a damp heathery plateau interlaced with many small paths. I kept to the right of Stile End - the hill ahead - and found a path that descended to the right where I arrived at the col between this and the next hill known simply as Barrow. The route over Outerside is longer but much more of a joy than the main path in the valley below. I would rejoin it lower down after conquering Barrow.

A clear path led onwards along the ridge and 10 minutes or so brought me to the top of Barrow - only 455m or 1493 feet but commanding a wonderful view of the vale of the Derwent as well as Newlands directly below in the fading light of late afternoon. There's no safe route straight down so to get down there I retraced my steps towards the col I had just left. Here I met the 2 girls again and they were doing the Wainwrights - why else would anyone be up here at this hour? They'd had a good day out but were now faced with a drive back to London - I did not envy them! They had been the only people I had seen since my descent to Sail Pass.

From the col I cut straight down the fellside where a small path joinrd up with the main one below on which I turned left down the valley. This path rounded the corner in the valley and followed the road along to where I was parked. I saw no-one along here either.

Pete Buckley November 2010

Summits >>> Causey Pike 637m/2090ft >>> Scar Crags 672m/2205ft >>> Sail 773m/2536ft >>> Outerside 568m/1864ft >>> Barrow 455m/1493ft

Essentials >>> Up 970m >>> Down 970m >>> How Far? 12km >>> Start and finish at the Newlands Road near Stair >>>

A Short Walk from Honister

Weather men and climatologists have a unit with which to measure how much sunshine a place receives or is likely to receive, known as the sunshine hour or sun hour. In the Lake District however as I emerge from Honister Youth Hostel - a cheery place of an evening in any weather - I propose that another unit be used, to be known as the sunshine minute. None of these were recorded yesterday nor would be today by the looks of things and if yesterday's rain had lacked commitment then today's was businesslike and determined in its efforts to discourage outdoor activities.

A wide gravel track led from the mine towards the dark misty outline of Honister Crag - the summit just in front of Fleetwith Pike - and I passed the turn off for Great Gable which ascends to the left. Nobody was out today and I had the misty fellsides and monochrome but atmospheric views to myself.

A little further on, the track forked and I took the left hand one - the other leading towards mine workings below Honister Crag. The track now lead more steeply up through a forlorn landscape of grey stone and damp heather to level out again on a rough heathery plateau with intermittent views to the fells of Ennerdale and the Great Gable area though banks of cloud drifted in front of their familiar outlines.

A short distance before some fresh mine workings where was parked a lonely looking digger - a faint path branched off to the right to avoid going through the workings themselves and re joined the track that led up over a rough landscape to the rocks marking the top of Honister Crag. Just before here I made a diversion to some old stone huts perched on the edge of the abyss their glassless windows overlooking the drifting mists that screened the screes of Dale Head opposite and road in the valley some 1500 feet below like some ancient mountain fortress standing guard over the pass.

From Honister Crag, a path meanders through the heather past a small tarn to climb the main summit of Fleetwith Pike overlooking the Buttermere Valley ahead. After the harsh landscape of the slate mines it's a surprisingly pleasant route that makes its way towards the vista of Buttermere and Crummock Water spread out below between Grasmoor and the High Stile Range. Venturing a short way down the ridge beyond the summit gives the best views, and seems to look straight down to Gatescarth farm in the valley below.

The rain in fact had almost stopped as I began my walk back to the pass but this was only a brief respite - it was raining again when I got there and continued to do so for the rest of the day.

This is a short walk of just over 3 miles return that is suitable for days such as this one when you don't always want to be out too long. In better weather it is even more rewarding with fine views down the Buttermere Valley to be had from the summit of Fleetwith Pike. The old mine huts near the top of Honister Crag are quite fascinating but take care on the edge - it is a sheer drop! For the peak bagger, Fleetwith Pike (648m/2126ft) is a Wainwright and a two thousander.

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Pete Buckley October 2010

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Summits >>> Fleetwith Pike 2126ft/648m

A Circuit of Helvellyn from Thirlmere

The path to Helvellyn from Wythburn Church was once one of the most popular ascent routes to that fell yet in recent times other ways to the summit have come more into favour. The route though is easy to follow and maintains interest throughout its course from the forested shores of Thirlmere to the top of England's third highest peak. My return route here was a circular finishing with a pleasant forest walk to the start point from Dunmail Raise - oh and for the peak bagger there are 4 Wainwrights on this one.

From the small church at Wythburn the signed path heads steeply up through the trees - mainly coniferous - to cross a forest road a short way uphill. There is a signpost here informing us that Helvellyn is straight across up the path on the opposite side. To the right is marked Dunmail Raise and left "Swirls" while Wythburn Church is signed back the way we've come - remember this for the last part of the walk!

The path continued steeply uphill leaving the trees for a moment and allowing views of the rugged wooded country on the far side of Thirlmere though the lake itself remained largely concealed below. The path climbed past a line of tall pines before veering right to enter a vast hollow in the hills above the woods.

With the beck down on the left, I followed the path - which is a constructed trail here - steeply up and back around to the right to gain a gap in the crags above on that side. The views along Thirlmere improved as I moved back in that direction though the distant views across the Lake District - which are usually impressive from here - were largely obscured by haze. There were signs of this clearing though as I got higher and Skiddaw stood out more clearly in the North as did the high ridges above me though cloud rolled over the top from the East from time to time.

The terrain above the crags is more open and the gradients easier and I made rapid progress along an easy path that slanted up towards the ridge emerging at the gap between Helvellyn and Nethermost Pike. Now it was an easy walk to the summit through the mist that blew across the ridge in the strong gusting easterly wind.

There were intermittent views from the cairn of Catstycam and Striding Edge and a ghostly prospect of Skiddaw seen through shifting mists but generally the cloud won and the views for which Helvellyn is known, remained elusive.

I now intended to follow the ridge in a southerly direction to Grisedale Tarn and make my way back via Dunmail Raise so I set off back in that direction, following the edge of the escarpment instead of the wide path coming up from Grasmere. There were surprisingly few people for a weekend when it wasn't raining though I did meet a couple who had ascended by Kepplecove Tarn (as it was - there is no tarn now) from Glenridding which is the route I describe in "Helvellyn the Quiet Way" and indeed they had found it quiet. We discussed the merits and hazards of descending by Striding Edge in this wind and they wisely opted for the route by Grisedale which is a nice walk. When I had come up by Keppelcove my intent to descend by Swirral Edge to Catstycam had been thwarted by gales. Neither route would pose a serious danger today - if care were taken - but why take the risk?

Crossing the wide summit of Nethermost Pike then the small grassy peak of Dollywaggon Pike I reached the steep descent to Grisedale Tarn which can be toilsome to climb on a warm day and was the reason I'd done the circuit this way around. If you're a peak bagger then these 2 summits are both Wainwrights and two thousanders though the way over them is far pleasanter than the wide tourist path regardless.

There were quite a few people making the ascent this way though and despite my less than favorable memories of the route on hot summer days it remains a popular way to Helvellyn. In descent it is enjoyable with Grisedale Tarn getting ever closer while the rough slopes of Fairfield rise opposite. The location if the tarn is wonderful, being a wild hollow in the mountains at the head of the long deep valley of Grisedale. It is miles from any road and is only accessible on foot or by mountain bike.

I followed the path around the tarn to the left rather than cut across to its right and found myself on the good path that climbed steadily a short distance to Grisedale Hause (pass). Here I ascended the steep ground facing me on the right of the pass to my last summit Seat Sandal. The path is excessively loose and steep lower down and the grass to the right is easier here. Having negotiated the steep section, it was simply a case of following the wall to my last summit of the day.

Seat Sandal is a fine viewpoint being separate from the rest of the fells and overlooking Grasmere on one side and the valley containing Thirlmere on the other - the best views of Grasmere are to be had from the cairn a little further on down the ridge. I had the summit to myself for a while until I was joined by fellow lone wanderer of the hills - a very pleasant girl who's name I didn't get but who had come up from Grasmere and was heading back via Fairfield and Great Rigg which sounds like another good circuit. She said her route up the ridge had been hard work - it does look pretty direct!

Leaving the wide views to the ravens, I set off roughly northwards aiming to the left of Dollywaggon Pike to descend a steep grassy slope to join a path that led down to the left following the stream. This track led down a wonderful mini gorge with rapids and waterfalls as the river made its way over rocky steps and through deep channels. This is the valley of Raise Beck and leads without difficulty - care in a few places if the rocks are wet - to the top of the road pass Dunmail Raise.

Thankfully there is a path that leads off from the road over the stone wall at a stile signposted to Wythburn so to the sound of 2 motorcyclists apparently attempting to set a new land speed record, I left the tarmac behind and followed the path through fields to end up back in the forest where I'd started. An enjoyable walk along a forest track - gained over a bridge across a river at the edge of the trees - brought me from views of Thirlmere through the trees into the deep greens of the woods and to the signpost I'd passed at the start of the walk. Those who were paying attention will remember that it points left from this trail down the hill to wythburn Church. If you miss the sign then - well I've not been that way but I guess it ends up at the King's Head pub where at least you can get a pint before walking all the way back.

Pete Buckley October 2010

Summits Helvellyn 950m/3117ft Nethermost Pike 891m/2923ft Dollywaggon Pike 858m/2815ft Seat Sandal 736m/2415ft

Essentials >>> Up 1040m >>> Down 1040m >>> How Far? 15.2km >>> Start and finish at Wythburn Church by Thirlmere (bus stop and small car park)

More walks and hikes on my homepage

Through the Coniston Fells

This is a walk along the length of the Coniston Fells in the Furness region of South Lakeland. As described the walk takes in 5 Wainwrights though there are options to extend it to take in all 7 of the Coniston Fells - a long day - or shorten it into a circular route visiting 4 summits. My own chosen variation visits 5 tops including the remote summit of Grey Friar at the northern edge of the range, this being the only fell in the area I hadn't previously climbed.

Setting out along the stony track of the Walna Scar Road - a track closed to traffic - I passed the path turning right up the steep hill to Coniston Old Man - the Boo Tarn route. This is a quiet and pleasant way to that peak that is much to be preferred to the traditional way via Low water and it is described in full on my Coniston old Man page. The way is now signposted by where a quarry road leaves the Walna Scar route. There is more on the traffic free status of that route at the end of this post.

After three quarters of a mile I left the Walna Scar Track to follow a path up to the right leading past the deep blue waters of Goats Water, a mountain tarn beneath the soaring rocks of Dow Crag on its far shore where several rock climbers could be seen ascending the cliffs far above. Now the path climbed steeply over rough terrain to gain the col of Goats Hause which separates Dow Crag from the Old Man. Here groups of walkers rested after the warm steep ascent.

The steady stream of people now headed off to either one of these peaks though my route followed the fainter path that after the initial right turn branched off to the left to contour the slope at an easy angle towards Swirl How with my own objective of Grey Friar seen across the deep valley containing Seathwaite Tarn. This path simply saves climbing up over Brim Fell which marks the main ridge and would be my return route.

With little effort I reached the col before Swirl How and began the ascent again. The views now opened out to Levers Water down the opposite side of the ridge with Coniston Water below and the green expanse of Grizedale Forest beyond. After the false summit of Great How crags was passed I made my way - with the groups of walkers - over to the cairn marking the top of Swirl How. Though overtopped by a matter of a metre or 3 feet by Coniston Old Man, Swirl How is actually the main peak of the Coniston Fells and it is fom here that the ridges connect to each end of the group.

One such ridge falling in just north of an easterly line to connect with Wetherlam is the Prison Band and this is an option for a circular route. If you had ascended by the Boo Tarn - or Low Water for that matter - route to the Old Man and followed the ridge here, descending the Prison Band to Levers Hause and going down to Levers Water gives the choice of returning to the Walna Scar Road via "Boulder Valley" or continuing down to Coniston.

I had a rest and some more water on the top of Swirl How watching the various groups milling their way along the wide ridge - most were going no further than this - when I got chatting to a girl who came and sat on the next rock to my own. Turns out that she'd set off from Langdale that morning and had already climbed Pike o' Blisco and Cold Pike on the far side of the Wrynose road before arriving here via Grey Friar. Her plan was to continue to Dow Crag and the Old Man and return to Langdale via Wetherlam so climbing all of the Coniston Fells. Impressed? I was!

Jaqueline was doing the Wainwrights and had set off that day to see how many summits she could reach - a few more than I would today - but at least I had done most of them already! We compared Munros and Wainwrights for a while before heading off on our separate ways into the hills. What a thoroughly charming girl!

The way from here to the next summit, Great Carrs is simply a matter of a few minutes walk with spectacular views into the Central Lakes. The crowds had gone and as I set off for Grey Friar pretty much everyone had gone. Grey Friar stands in remote mountain country separate from the main Coniston Fells overlooking the beautiful and unspoilt Duddon Valley and the lonely country above Cockley Beck - Upper Eskdale and the Scafell Range which was topped with grey cloud - one of the finest views in the Lakes.

I finished my lunch on the summit in the chill wind that had sprung up before heading back. Another easy path contoured the hillside around to the right from the depression between Grey Friar anf Swirl How so avoiding re-ascending those fells I had just climbed. The path joined the ridge again just before the ascent to Brim Fell which was an easy steady climb past several cairns to the broad expanse of the summit. Despite the increased cloud, the air remained clear and the Isle of Man floated surreally over the top of Harter Fell. Coniston Old Man was only a short way from here and soon I had rejoined the tourists on its summit who milled around taking photos of each other by the trig point.

I strained my eyes looking across the silver expanse of the Irish Sea in search of Snowdon - yes perhaps a dark smudge was just visible on the edge of things. Occasionally one can see as far as the Welsh Mountains from the Lake District but it is not so common. No sign of my companion of earlier - she must already be on her way back by now.

I set off leaving the tourists to do touristy things and headed south towards the top of the Boo Tarn Route. A faint path was soon picked up and I followed it down to the Walna Scar Road. If descending by this route do not stray too far to the right - towards the valley containing Goats Water - the ground is much steeper with crags there. Once the path is found it becomes more obvious the further you go. In mist - which is most of the time at Coniston - it is perhaps better to go down by the normal way past Low Water. Here even the most navigationally challenged would struggle to lose their way. All in all I would rate this as a good day out in the hills.

Pete Buckley August 2010

Summits >>> Swirl How 802m/2632ft >>> Great Carrs 785m/2575ft >>> Grey Friar 773m/2536ft >>> Brim Fell 796m/2611ft >>> Coniston Old Man 803m/2635ft
Essentials >>> 860m/2820ft of climbing and descent >>> 15.4km or 9.6 miles of walking >>> Start and finish at the sart of the Walna Scar Road or from Coniston >>> check out my homepage for more walks and hikes

Postscript: As I reached the car park there were 2 guys from ITV News filming at the start of the Walna Scar road. As it turns out they were covering the story that the road had - that very morning been closed to traffic. I had been under the impression that it was anyway but no - it had been opened and closed at regular intervals and todays news was the latest in the saga. The road goes to the Duddon Valley via a 2000 foot pass and driving over it would almost certainly result the destruction of your car but the issue here was use by 4 wheel drive vehicles and off road motor bikers.

My own view on this matter is clear - the road should remain for use by non motorised transport only with the exception of essential traffic related to the quarry, use by farmers and the mountain rescue service. There is more on this matter in an article I have published here

The Caldbeck Fells

Here is an easy circular walk of eight and a half miles into the Caldbeck Fells at the northern extremity of the Lake District. The walking is easy and generally on grass apart from a fascinating ravine walk and 4 summits - all Wainwrights - are reached. The route perhaps lacks the dramatic scenery of the central Lakes but the empty spaces and far reaching views that typify the Caldbeck Fells, you will have to yourself. The start is from just south of the small hamlet of Orthwaite reached up the minor road about 5 miles north of Keswick on the A591.

The previous day had been one of the warmest of the summer with temperatures in excess of 30C in the South of England and 26C at home 200m above sea level. This was not the case today however and the thermometer stood at 11 degrees while ragged grey clouds hid the top of Skiddaw and a thin rain blew in on the fresh north westerly wind. From the almost tropical warmth of yesterday the weather now reminded me of the damp chill of Reykjavik in Iceland which was hardly surprising really as that was where it was coming from.

Hood up, I set off through the gate opposite and up the bridleway on its far side. I was about seven and a half miles north of Keswick and just south of the hamlet of Orthwaite above Bassenthwaite Lake and the path here was signposted to Burn Tod though I'm not sure why because there's nothing there. After a short distance the path left the farm track (which goes to Dash Farm) and climbed gently up to the left across the slopes of the fell known as Great Cockup which has to be one of the funniest names ever given to a hill. After passing a small summit which is actually a great viewpoint, the path meandered its way along the slopes towards a great grassy hollow in the fells ahead with views on the right of the Dash Valley and falls. These remote hills are known as the Ulldale Fells and join up with the (slightly) better known Caldbeck Fells the northernmost range in Lakeland. The character of the area though is not typically Lakeland but has more in common with the Howgills or the Southern Uplands of Scotland - vast sweeping slopes and rounded summits, the exception here being the northern aspect of Skiddaw fronted by the shadowed crags of Bakestall and the spectacular Dash Falls.

My path descended into the hollow surrounded by clouded hills and at an area of tall foliage the path disappeared and the rain started up again with renewed vigour. I crossed a stream and by passed the reedy area to its right and just beond a ruined wall, the path was rediscovered up to the left. Here I entered an exciting steep sided ravine which was a change from the open grasslands but didn't stop the wind which funnelled up behind me. The path mainly keeps on the left side of the river on the ascent and though rough in a few places is not hard, climbing steadily up the ravine which makes for an interesting walk.

As the top is neared the ravine splits in 2 with the main river descending from the left branch while the right one is almost dry. A path does exit up to the left but the far easier way is to keep on up the right branch which soon ceases to be a ravine at all, emerging on the grassy ridge at the top. Here I turned left and followed a faint path up the wide ridge in dense mist buffeted by an icy wind and horizontal rain which - just for good measure - was mixed with face stinging hailstones.

After a cairn on the ridge, the path climbed again indicating that the cairn hadn't been the summit of Knott after all - the true top being revealed ahead as the cloud finally broke up around me giving tantalising glimpses of distant hills and wild empty spaces to the east. That was Skiddaw Forest and the Caldbeck Fells - Lakeland's Empty Quarter. It is very important if you come walking up here in visibility as bad as this not to get lost by heading too far east - the walk home will be too much for many!

Knott is the highest point of the Caldbeck Fells and the highest Lakeland fell north of Skiddaw and today it was positively arctic - after the recent heatwave this was one of the coldest days I remember walking in the UK in summer - it was now only 5 or 6 degrees more like winter really.

The view was revealed suddenly as the mists cleared away - blown at speed by the gale - and the rain ceased. My route lay to the north west to the grassy hump of Great Sca Fell which is nothing like its namesake above Wasdale though now the sun was out it was a very pleasant spot indeed. The only human for miles, I sat on the cairn which was the only rocky object in a sea of grass and admired the sweeping vista of the Cumbrian plain and the sands of the Solway backed by the hills of Scotland while all around the cloud shadows chased across the breezy heights.

Now my heading was west along another path and I soon descended a surprisingly steep though easy and grassy slope that was unseen from above. This led in due course to Meal Fell - for the peak baggers the third Wainwright though not a two thousander - whose summit is crowned by a fine stone shelter. Here I rested again and looked back to Great Sca Fell and the slope I had descended. There were 2 or 3 walkers coming down now appearing as ants half a mile away on the green expanse of Great Sca Fell.

To the West of Meal Fell is an interesting little pass known as Trusmadoor - a steep defile through the hills which I crossed to the South where it is easier. Now the path led steeply up a stony ridge on its far side until the gradient eased and followed the wide whaleback to the summit of Great Cockup - yes the name is still amusing but it's a good viewpoint as well!

From the far end of Great Cockup a descent to the left through heather soon picks up the track we started on earlier and a reluctant return to civilisation can be achieved by turning right when it is reached. Then again one could always bring a tent!

Summits >>> Knott 710m/2330ft >>> Great Sca Fell 651m/2136ft >>> Meal Fell 550m/1805ft >>> Great Cockup 526m/1726ft Essentials >>> 8.5 miles or 13.5km of walking >>> 1900 feet or 580m of ascent >>> Start and finish at Orthwaite >>>

Pete Buckley July 2010

Wasdale to Glaramara

This walk from Wasdale head visits 3 Wainwrights; Allen Crags, Glaramara and Great End, before returning by a little used shortcut through the Scafell Range. At just short of 13 miles with over 4000 feet of ascent it is long but varied throughout and gives contrasting views of much of central Lakeland.

Leaving Wasdale Head in the cool of early morning, I passed the small church of St Olaf and followed the lane between stone walls to Burnthwaite half a mile up the valley. Here the path was signposted left around the farm building before reaching the gap in the wall that marked the open fellside.

Studiously avoiding the rough and stony path that climbed to the left - the usual route to Sty Head - I kept to the right after the footbridge followed a quiet grassy path that kept close to the river of Lingmell Beck. The map shows this path keeping to the left or north of the beck and you can go that way but I crossed the stream just after a small copse of trees which is the old valley route to Sty Head.

The winding path climbed gently below spectacular views of Lingmell with its craggy ramparts falling to the deep cleft of Piers Gill while on the opposite side of the valley the scree slopes of Great Gable rose steeply past the Napes Crag to a jagged skyline over 2000 feet above. Several parties now slogged their wayb up the stony pathway opposite though I had this pleasant grassy walkway to myself.

My route curved up to the left of a rocky bluff and there was the summit of the pass with the stretcher box just ahead. Here I turned right and followed thewide track up past Sprinkling Tarn - the wettest place in England - to the wall shelter below Esk Hause passing en route the sombre northern crags of Great End. Where the path forks after the tarn take the left - the other goes directly to Esk Hause and Scafell Pike and going up there now would cause you to miss half of this route.

The views north down Borrowdale to Skiddaw and Blencathra were all of a sudden replaced by the jagged outline of the Langdale Pikes ahead as I reached the shelter. (Note - if in mist - this path passes just to the left of the shelter and not straight to it!) Turning left, a short easy climb brought me to the first summit of the day, that of Allen Crags.

Despite the infamous climate of this region, the sun shone warmly tempered only by a pleasant cooling breeze that gave almost perfect walking conditions. From allen Crags the path led at first downhill winding its way round rocky bluffs and across grassy swathes until I reached High House Tarn which is actually about 3 small pools facing an interesting perspective of the Langdale Pikes. Beyond, the route went up a small rocky groove and crossed a minor summit before a final depression and a steep climb to the right of crags ahead. Now 2 summits were seen ahead - the highest of Glaramara's several tops, the summit of the fell being the last one which also provides the best views.

The central position of Glaramara gives a unique perspective on the Central Lakes andhaving left the Wasdale fells behind I was now looking down on the green depths of Borrowdale and Derwentwater while behind the rugged peaks of Bowfell, Esk Pike and Great End made the skyline.

The return is by the same route and makes a round trip of three and a half miles with 1000 feet of ascent despite the 2 fells being of similar height - Deceptive but worth it for the views.

From here the quickest way back to Wasdale is to retrace one's steps to Sty Head but a more interesting though harder route is the one I now took. In what seemed no time at all after the up and down path I'd been on I was down past the stone shelter and almost up to Esk Hause on its far side - the wide path to Scafell Pike being completely without difficulty here. The pass actually links Eskdale and Borrowdale whereas the shelter which is sometimes referred to as Esk Hause is on the much more popular path from Langdale to Borrowdale or Wasdale. Sty Head links Wasdale and Borrowdale and yes - there are many people wandering these hills completely ignorant of these facts!

Once at the pass the view opened out into the wilds of upper Eskdale ahead and I followed the trail up to the left in the direction of Scafell Pike. The greatest joy of this motorway of a route is the look on the tourists' faces when they realise how far away the Pike still is! I consider heading there myself - but not for very long. Seven times is enough for anyone so I leave the path at the ridgeline and briefly head north again to the much nearer stony top of Great End. You can visit Scafell Pike - England's highest summit - on this walk by following the main path and descending by either Lingmell Col or Mickledore to Wasdale.

Great End has 2 summit cairns - the north western one with better views across Sty Head to Great Gable and the other which is considered the official summit. Both are about the same height. From the main summit - a rough tangle of boulders - I walked north a short way to where the best view was to be had. Overlooking the precipitous top of Great Gully the ground opens up to reveal Sprinkling Tarn a thousand feet below backed by the wooded vale of Borrowdale and the familiar outline of Skiddaw beyond Derwentwater - one of the finest mountain prospects in Lakeland. I watched the ant-like figures of walkers below on the path I'd ascended earlier before returning over the rough plateau to col above Calf Cove where I had left the main track.

There is a faint path down the far - or western - side of the ridge and it led down to where the ground steepened considerably though the steepness was walkable to where I met a stream on the right. Carefully I picked my way down the slope pausing to replenish my water bottles from the strem before continuing down to flatter ground in the grassy hollow of Calf Cove below.

A good spot this was - an unexpected pasture watched over by soaring crags and hidden from below. I followed faint traces of path over easy grass to the left of the rocky feature called Round How and skirted a marshy level at its foot then there just below was the Corridor Route path which I followed around the rocky head of Piers Gill, the vast ravine I'd observed from below that morning - seemed a long time ago now!

Where the main path climbed off up to the left, I followed a lesser trail which soon climbed beside a ruined stone wall to end up at Lingmell Col a wide expanse of rough tussock country between the Pike and Lingmell and crossing it brought me within sight of Wastwater sparkling in the West under the bright afternoon sun. joining the main path descending ahead there were views of the sublime rock walls of Pikes Crag above and Scafell Crag across the rocky combe known as Hollow Stones. These stony fastnesses took on a harsh aura inthe sunlight as if deprived of their customary garb of damp grey mist.

The descent from Lingmell Col is simply a matter of following the constructed pathway downhill - it is knee jarring and unpleasant after a long day though not as unpleasant as ascending this way in the hot sun. Near the bottom of the incessant gradient just after the path crosses the river where 2 streams meet the track splits in 2. If you are based at or near the National Trust campsite in Wasdale then you want the left one as that is where it duly leads. I wasn't so took the right which rounded the ridge and led down through scattered trees to Wasdale Head.

Summits >>> Allen Crags 785m/2575ft >>> Glaramara 783m/2569ft >>> Great End 910m/2985ft
Essentials >>> 12.5 miles or 21km of walking >>> 4100 feet or 1250m of ascent >>> Start and finish at Wasdale Head >>>

Pete Buckley June 2010

The High Stile Ridge

I had had breakfast and was out of the youth hostel by 8.30 am walking in the cool morning air down the empty road to Buttermere Village. Passing the Fish Hotel I followed the track between hedges across the level fields towards the lake. From here in this light, High Stile appeared of alpine proportions, its soaring crags towering skywards from the grassy meadows I was crossing. Buttermere Lake too provided a stunning view over its mirror calm water to the head of the valley appearing like a Norwegian fiord below the vast mountain wall to the South.
The path crossed the outflow from Buttermere by a footbridge and entered the forest on its far side. Here the cascade of Sour Milk Gill descends from the forested slopes above but my path climbed steeply through the trees well to its left. It was warm climbing through the woods in the still air and I had to keep stopping to cool off every 10 minutes. Above the trees and the view opened out of Buttermere - now a long way below - with Grasmoor and Robinson hanging in the clear air across the valley while the path became even steeper turning into stone steps going straight up the slope. As the slope eased off and the path tracked back to the right across the slope, it became cooler and the view now included Crummock Water down the valley.

The route now follows an easier section passing above the Top of the rocky ravine containing Sour Milk Gill to reach Bleaberry Tarn in its hollow below High Stile and Red Pike. The Tarn is is invisible until you reach it and I was surprised to find someone fly fishing here at this early hour. He reckoned that there were trout in there so I wished him good luck and carried on up more stone steps leading up to Red Pike. The steps are a bit of a grind but the last part has some excitement turning into an easy scramble up the steep summit of Red Pike always with stunning views and a sense of height behind.

I now put my coat on as the wind was no longer warm as I admired the view from Red Pike. The forests of Ennerdale surrounded Ennerdale Water over the far side while the West Cumbria plain stretched away to the Solway Firth with Scotland's Galloway Hills beyond. The rugged Pillar with Great Gable and the Scafells beyond were topped by grey cloud though we remained clear here.

In contrast to the steep ascent, gentle mainly grassy slopes led towards High Stile and only the last part of the ascent to its summit became rough again but this was what the rest of the route would be like. These mountains are composed of hard volcanic rock and their slopes are typified by acres of sharp shifting stones and the rocky escarpment falling away - often vertically - in gullies and butresses on the Buttermere side. It's a fantastic ridge walk but there's no way off for the walker without a paraglider between Red Pike and High Crag!

The cloud scraped the top of High Stile and the wind was chilly registering 9C on my rucksack thermometer as I ate my lunch before continuing on a rough up and down ridge towards High Crag at its eastern end. The highest point of High Stile by the way appears to be the first cairn you reach - there being another a 5 minute walk beyond it on a level plateau.

The weather improved with the cloud lifting and the Sun emerging as I reached High Crag - the most impressive of the 3 summits if the lowest. The wilds of Ennerdale lay below with Pillar opposite while the end of the ridge fell away in spectacular fashion with the rocky towers of Haystacks below. There's a track leading along Ennerdale to Black Sail Youth Hostel - 7 milles or so from the road - that would make a good bike ride by the looks of it. I'll give it a try and let you know.

The path from High Crag now descends the feature known as Gamlin End - a steep eroded slope of sliding stones and holdless gravel. There was in fact only one place where bottom and ground made contact but the 2000 foot drop to the Buttermere Valley isn't quite so pretty when one is sliding downhill towards it! It wasn't as bad as it sounds though - the slope went into a bank of stones that would prevent anyone falling down the slope and soon I was descending the tight zig zags of a stone pathway.

A short while later I was resting on a much more comfortable rocky shelf overlooking the last descent to Scarth Gap - the pass linking Buttermere and Ennerdale. People milled below on their way to the popular Haystacks and I opted to climb it on a quieter day. The weather was perfect - warm but not hot and blue sky now framed the fells at the head of Ennerdale having replaced their grey cloud caps. I set off down to the pass where I was greeted by a mountain biker carrying his machine over the rocky ground. In my view a route ceases to be bikable if you can't ride your bike over it. I'm loath to push a bike up a hill let alone carry it!

Lower down I met 2 more cyclists who said their guide book had recommended this as a route. I don't know which book they were using but I told them Ennerdale would be good but not not perhaps by this path and asked if the guy up ahead was with them.

"oh Yeah" they replied, "but he's extreme!"

Turning left at the bottom of Scarth Gap brought me onto the Buttermere lakeside track which was definitely more suited to bikes. This track follows the south shore of Buttermere opposite the one I'd been on yesterday and is even easier being passable to pushchairs and toddlers for all of its length. In fact it seemed that most of the visitors to Buttermere had decided to walk or push their prams along here today.

Through the pleasant coolness of Birtness Wood and back again to the Fish Hotel which I resisted a second time though - failing to also resist the Bridge Hotel - popped in for a pint as they had Black Sheep on tap - a particularly good beer!

Summits >>> Red Pike 755m/2477ft >>> High Stile 807m/2648ft >>> High Crag 744m/2441ft

Essentials >>> 7.5 miles or 12km of walking >>> 2600 feet or 800m of ascent >>> Start and finish at Buttermere Village >>>

Pete Buckley September 2009